August
2024
History
Oreo: To Dunk or Twist

By Robert Matsumura, Contributing Writer
The Oreo cookie. Two chocolate wafers with a creamy vanilla filling sandwiched between them. A perennial favorite for decades, Oreos are loved by millions around the world, with one major debate baked into its delicious existence, which revolves around the best way to eat them: dunk or twist. There are two opposing camps: Twisters and Dunkers. The former maintain that the best way to eat an Oreo is to twist them apart and enjoy each side separately; some eat the creamy center first. The latter, on the other hand, insist the cookie should be dipped into milk and allowed to basically melt in your mouth. Either way, both camps agree this classic cookie is downright delicious! Of course, there are those of us who don’t belong to either side and simply savor the Oreo as a tasty sandwich cookie.
In 1898, several competing baking companies merged to form the National Biscuit Company, also known as Nabisco. In 1902, Nabisco introduced Barnum’s Animal Crackers for the first time, gaining fame by packaging them in small boxes designed like animal cages at the circus, and featuring an attached string for hanging the boxes from Christmas trees.
It was in 1912 when Nabisco had dreamed up this “new” cookie, but in truth, the concept of two crisp chocolate wafers surrounding a flat cream filling had already been introduced: Since 1908, Sunshine Biscuits had been producing its Hydrox cookies in Kansas City. Although Nabisco has never identified Hydrox as its inspiration, it’s difficult to deny the similarity between the two cookies. The Oreo quickly surpassed its competitor and soon reigned supreme in the sandwich cookie realm. Nabisco made certain to file for a trademark on its new cookie, which was granted on Aug. 12, 1913.
When Nabisco’s new cookie was first introduced in 1912, it appeared as an Oreo Biscuit — “biscuit” being the common word for cookie back in England and a holdover term from colonial days. In 1921, it was renamed the Oreo Sandwich before another change in 1937 to the Oreo Creme Sandwich. It wasn’t until 1974 that Nabisco finally settled on the official name: the Oreo Chocolate Sandwich Cookie. Despite the plethora of name changes over the years, most people have typically just called it the “Oreo.” The appearance of the cookie progressed from the original design, which simply featured the name Nabisco with a wreath at the edge, to the addition of two turtle doves and a ring of laurels in 1924. The more elaborate design we know today first appeared in 1954.
As for the origin of the name “Oreo,” Nabisco has no definitive answer. One school of thought asserts that the cookie’s name was derived from “or,” the French word for gold, which was the primary color on the early packaging. Others maintain the name was inspired from the shape of the original cookie which resembled a mound or hill. Proponents of this theory cite the Greek word for mountain, “oreo,” as the source of the cookie’s name. Others argue the name is the result of taking “re” from “cream” and sandwiching it — like the cookie — between the two o’s in “chocolate” to make “o-re-o.”
Despite the mysterious origin of the cookie’s name, the Oreo has been a perennial hit. As of 2019, approximately 450 billion Oreo cookies have been sold since 1912, placing it atop the mountain of cookie sales and endearing it to millions of people worldwide.
Although the original recipe of the Oreo has not changed much, Nabisco has experimented with variations on the classic cookie. In 1975, Nabisco released Double Stuff Oreos to the delight of those who craved the cookie’s creamy filling. In 1987, fudge-coated Oreos hit the market, with festive holiday versions released in 1991 (Halloween Oreos) and 1995 (Christmas Oreos). Over the years, there have been numerous other iterations of the Oreo, including the Golden Oreo, Oreo Minis, Oreo Cakesters and Oreo Double Triples.
Despite the limited edition variations, the delicious filling inside the Oreo evolved only minimally with the passage of time. The creamy filling was created by Nabisco’s “principal scientist” Sam Porcello, who is frequently referred to as “Mr. Oreo.” His recipe, created in 1912, has remained essentially the same, though due to health concerns the company switched from the use of lard to non-hydrogenated vegetable oil to veer from trans fats.
Although the majority of Oreo production was once carried out at the Hershey’s factory in Hershey, Pennsylvania, the beloved cookie is now produced around the world in 18 different countries.
Nabisco’s marketing of the Oreo cookie has been remarkably successful, with highlights that include a 2013 tweet, “You can still dunk in the dark,” inspired by the 39-minute power outage in Super Bowl XLVII. The Guinness Book of World Records’ largest taste test took place in Madrid, Spain, in 2009 when 1,471 participants compared the taste of an Oreo to an imitation cookie. One fun piece of trivia for cookie aficionados is that New York City’s 15th Street at Ninth Avenue is called Oreo Way in honor of it being the birthplace of the Oreo cookie.
One thing is for certain: No matter how you enjoy your Oreo cookie, be it dunking, twisting or eating as-is, this crunchy chocolate creamy delight has satisfied the palates of generations of people around the world for more than a century. Styles, technology and fashions come and go, but it’s a good bet that the Oreo cookie is here to stay.